Dégustation Millésime 2012

Burghound - Allan Meadows : Dégustation 2012 sur fûts et 2011 en Bouteille

Dégusté en Novembre 2013.

Domaine Jean Tardy (Vosne-Romanée)

2012 Bourgogne – Hautes Côtes de Nuits Cuvée Maelie red (86-88)

2012 Chambolle-Musigny “Les Athets” red (87-89)

2012 Echézeaux – Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru red (90-93)

2012 Fixin “La Place” red (87-89)

2012 Gevrey-Chambertin “Champs Perriers Vieilles Vignes” red (88-91)

2012 Nuits St. Georges “Les Argillas” 1er red (89-92)

2012 Nuits St. Georges “Au Bas de Combe Vieilles Vignes” red (89-91)

2012 Vosne-Romanée “Vigneux” red (88-91)

2011 Chambolle-Musigny “Les Athets” red 88

2011 Echézeaux – Les Treux Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru red 92

2011 Fixin “La Place” red 88

2011 Gevrey-Chambertin “Champs Perriers Vieilles Vignes” red 90

2011 Nuits St. Georges “Les Argillas” 1er red 90?

2011 Nuits St. Georges “Au Bas de Combe Vieilles Vignes” red 89

2011 Vosne-Romanée “Vigneux” red 89

Guillaume Tardy describes 2012 as a “beautiful vintage despite the poor flowering that cost us so much potential yield. I would put our losses overall right at 30% relative to a normal harvest. I decided to begin picking on the 25th of September and the fruit was exceptionally clean, indeed so much so that there really wasn’t much sorting to do. The skins were quite thick and I think it would have been easy to over extract so I did more of an infusion because producing balanced wines is my main concern. As to the wines, the supporting phenolics are very ripe but allied with plenty of refreshing acidity. The mouth feels are elegant with a good balance of various fruit, tannin and acidities. I love how refreshing the wines are and to me they should drink well both young and old as they have the balance and concentration to age if that’s how my clients wish to drink them. I would like them to an even better version of 2010.” I have noted this before but it seems that each vintage Tardy makes little improvements to his wines. They are less overtly oaky than before (though there is still enough to notice) with seriously impressive quality given that the bulk of the range is in villages level wines. Tardy has done extremely well yet again with his lower level wines in both 2011 and 2012. In fact I would observe that Tardy has easily transcended the general quality of both vintages. As such, if you don’t know the wines, you owe your pocketbook the favor of making their acquaintance.

Tardy noted that his 2011s, revisited below, were bottled in February 2013. (Becky Wasserman & Co., www.leserbet.com,

Beaune, France; Classified Wine & Spirits, LLC, www.classifiedwine.net, Austin, TX).

 2012 sur Fûts / Out of Barrel

2012 Bourgogne – Hautes Côtes de Nuits Cuvée Maelie: A ripe but reserved nose features notes of fresh red berries and soft earth hints. There is good detail and punch to the solidly well-concentrated and mineral-inflected flavors that are shaped by phenolically mature tannins on the balanced finish. A fine example of the genre. (86-88)/2016+

2012 Fixin “La Place”: Brilliant ruby. Here the nose is more expressive with notes of red currant, floral hints and plenty of earth character. There is both a bit more volume and a higher level of ripeness to the concentrated and concentrated middle weight flavors that possess a hint of minerality on the lingering finish that displays almost no rusticity. (87-89)/2017+

2012 Chambolle-Musigny “Les Athets”: There is a discreet application of wood to the red and dark pinot fruit aromas where there is a strong earth element and softer more subtle spice nuances. The supple, generous and fleshy medium weight flavors possess good mid-palate fat before terminating in a naturally sweet and seductive finish. (87-89)/2017+

2012 Vosne-Romanée “Vigneux”: (this vineyard is situated on the north side of the village next to Bas Maizières and it is the only declared example of which I am aware). A spicy, ripe and well-layered mélange of red and black pinot fruit, cherry and soft floral aromas is both elegant and complex. This is more tightly coiled than the Athets with a light minerality adding a sense of lift to the attractively vibrant and delicious flavors that possess fine concentration and lovely balance on the detailed and lingering finish. This is a fine villages and worth a look. (88-91)/2018+

2012 Gevrey-Chambertin “Champs Perriers Vieilles Vignes”: (from vines planted in 1957). A cool, restrained and impressively pure nose offers up essence of red berry scents that evidence subtle hints of Gevrey style earth and sauvage elements. There is good mid-palate density to the fleshy, round and delicious medium weight flavors that also reflect a light minerality on the well-balanced and solidly persistent finish. Once again, this is a quality villages. (88-91)/2018+

2012 Nuits St. Georges “Au Bas de Combe Vieilles Vignes”: (from 50+ year old vines). There is enough reduction present to compromise a proper assessment of the nose. By contrast there is very good freshness to the vibrant and delineated medium-bodied flavors that possess fine mid-palate concentration as the dry extract really coats the palate and buffers the moderately firm tannic spine on the delicious if ever-so-mildly austere finish. As is often the case this is the best villages in the range in 2012 if only by a little. (89-91)/2019+

2012 Nuits St. Georges “Les Argillas”: (from a .40 ha parcel of vines that average about 40 years of age). Soft wood influence frames the notably ripe yet quite cool and restrained aromas of red berries, dark currant, earth and a hint of animale. There is a refined mouth feel to the mineral-driven, energetic and detailed middle weight flavors that are supported by plenty of dry extract and moderately firm tannins before concluding in a balanced, clean and agreeably dry finale. This is basically a wine of finesse though there is just enough muscle to make it clear that this is still Nuits-based. (89-92)/2020+

2012 Echézeaux – Vieilles Vignes: (note that as of 2012 Tardy elected to no longer use the name of the climat Les Treux on the label). A beautifully layered and prominently spiced nose blends notes of red currant, plum, earth and sandalwood. There is a very generous, even lush mouth feel to the broad-shouldered, intense and powerful flavors that presently display just enough bitterness to notice on the otherwise well-balanced and lingering finish. Note that my predicted range assumes that this bitterness is just a passing phase that is probably due to the elevated level of gas. (90-93)/2020+

 2011 en Bouteille / Bottled

2011 Fixin “La Place”: This is also quite pretty with a relatively earthy blend of humus, spice and game on the red and blue pinot fruit aromas. There is good mid-palate concentration to the rich, round and solidly complex flavors that possess unusually fine tannins, all wrapped in a balanced, long and again utterly delicious finish where only a trace of rusticity is perceptible. 88/2016+

2011 Chambolle-Musigny “Les Athets”: A discreet hint of wood spice adds breadth to the more elegant and airy red pinot fruit aromas that are cut with just a bit of earth that can also be found on the attractively rich, round, refined and lightly mineraltinged middle weight flavors. There is good energy and detail to the solidly persistent and well-balanced finish. 88/2018+

2011 Vosne-Romanée “Vigneux”: (this vineyard is situated on the north side of the village next to Bas Maizières and it is the only declared example of which I am aware). Here the nose reflects both soft oak and Vosne spice nuances that complement the notably ripe aromas of black cherry, cassis and anise. There is ample richness and volume to the mouth coating and solidly concentrated medium-bodied flavors that exude a fine dry extract that imparts a velvety texture to the balanced and impressively long finish. This is first-rate for its level and absolutely worth a look. 89/2017+

2011 Nuits St. Georges “Au Bas de Combe Vieilles Vignes”: (from 50+ year old vines). Subtle wood spice hints blend with ripe, fresh and markedly earthy dark pinot fruit scents. There is a textured and very suave mouth feel to the extract-rich medium weight flavors that possess plenty of punch and excellent complexity, all wrapped in a long finish that combines power with a certain sense of refinement. There is a trace of youthful asperity but my score assumes that it will round out with time in bottle as this is quite ripe. 89/2018+

2011 Gevrey-Chambertin “Champs Perriers Vieilles Vignes”: (from vines planted in 1957). An exceptionally pretty, pure and very fresh nose unites aromas of cool red pinot fruit, wet stone, humus and wet stone. There is excellent power and a taut muscularity to the solidly voluminous, intense and beautifully well-detailed medium-bodied flavors that exude a fine minerality on the punchy and harmonious finish. This is an unusually complete wine for its level and very much recommended plus it should age well too if desired. 90/2018+

2011 Nuits St. Georges “Les Argillas”: (from a .40 ha parcel of vines that average about 40 years of age). A mildly toasty nose displays fresh and cool scents of red berries and earth plus a hint of game. There is excellent volume to the round middle weight flavors that are supported by fine-grained tannins that are firm but not rustic, all wrapped in an ever-so-slightly warm and slightly dry finish. This is pretty but it’s not completely clear that it will harmonize in time. 90?/2019+

2011 Echézeaux – Les Treux Vieilles Vignes: (in 2011 Tardy reduced the new oak percentage from 100 to 70%). Noticeable if not dominant wood sets off exuberantly spicy, fresh and highly complex black pinot fruit aromas. There is both excellent volume and solid power to the medium weight plus flavors that are blessed with an abundance of mouth coating dry extract on the appealingly persistent, deep and seductive finish. This should age well yet drink well young too. 92/2021+

Wine Advocate - Neal Martin  / erobertparker.com  N° 210 Dec 2013

Millésime 2012 sur Fûts / Out of Barrel

2012 Jean Tardy Bourgogne Hautes Cotes   de Nuits Cuvee Maelie Rouge (87-89)

The 2012 Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Nuits Cuvee   Maelie offers some lovely pure dark plum and mulberry scents on the nose that   already offers plenty of volume and vigor. The palate is smooth and rounded,   nicely polished with tart red cherries and a touch of cassis lining the   finish. This modern-style Pinot will be approachable and delicious.
 
  Several weeks after visiting Guillaume Tardy at his winery on the RN74 to   taste the 2011s, I was back to taste the following vintage. Tardy is one of   the young and upcoming winemakers of Vosne-Romanee. His tenets are quite   straightforward: 100% de-stemming and no crushing, one week cold maceration   at 10 or 11 degrees and gentle extraction by infusion, like a tea bag, in   order to avoid astringent tannins and enhance silky textures. Ergo, Tardy-s   wines often have a modern sheen, perhaps even a glossiness that distinguishes   them for others. I have been a fan of these wines ever since I was introduced   to them several years ago in London, though Guillaume stressed that since the   introduction of temperature-controlled vats with the 2010 vintage, he has   been achieving ever greater precision in his wines. Like several other   winemakers, his approach is for a more reductive maturation in barrel, using   the carbon dioxide to act as a natural barrier. All the samples were taken   from one-year-old barrels although I tasted one or two from bottled blends in   order to examine the influence of the new oak on what will be the final   blend. -The 2012s have more freshness because of the higher acidity,- he   explained. -They are very vivacious. I think that 2012 is a better vintage   for aging compared to 2011 as you have acidity, structure and ripe tannins.   We started picking on September 23 and finished one week later. The harvest   was not easy as it was raining quite a lot, but we had a very nice August and   beginning of September. It was sunny until the September 22 and then we had   20mm of rain during the night. It was a wet harvest, but in the end the   grapes were healthy. It reminds me a little of 2002, but it is not as   concentrated as 2005 and keeps a delicate touch, so they will be more   approachable. 2012 is a big 2010.-

2012 Jean Tardy Chambolle Musigny les   Athets (90-92)

The 2012 Chambolle-Musigny Les Athets will be   matured in 35% new oak. It displays fine volume on the floral-scented nose   that bears semblances to the Fixin La Place -12, but with more vigor and   intensity. The palate is fresh and vibrant with very fine tannins. It needs a   little more flesh toward the finish, but that oak will fill in some of those   gaps. Brisk and lively in the mouth, give this young pup 18 months in bottle   after release.

 2012 Jean Tardy Echezeaux Vieilles   Vignes (92-94)

The 2012 Echezeaux Grand Cru Vieilles Vignes   has an intense nose of dark berry fruit, black plum and mulberry with just a   tang of sea salt. It is broody, biding its time and wondering why the hell   someone cannot wait until after bottling. The palate is medium-bodied with   fine, grainy tannins and a fine line of acidity. The middle and finish are   very compact with a gentle grip and a long, slightly saline finish. This is   undoubtedly an impressive Echezeaux in the making, a serious Pinot Noir that   will deserve several years in bottle.

2012 Jean Tardy Fixin la Place (88-90)

The 2012 Fixin La Place will be aged in 30%   new oak. It has a fragrant bouquet with lifted floral scents that are very   well-defined. The palate is crisp and fresh with pointed acidity. Very   natural in the mouth already, part of me wonders whether that new wood will   be necessary come final blending! Still, this is a very competent, vibrant,   silky smooth Fixin that is full of vigor.

2012 Jean Tardy Gevrey Chambertin   Champs Perrieres Vieilles Vignes (91-93)

The 2012 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes   Champerrier has an ebullient bouquet that will offer natural, brambly   raspberry and wild strawberry fruit interlaced with fine minerality and   precision. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins encasing pert,   poised red berry fruit. It feels long and languorous in the mouth while the   finish exerts just a pleasant grip. The new wood will eventually lend it more   breadth than it presently shows. Excellent.

2012 Jean Tardy Nuits St Georges 1er   Cru Aux Argillas ( 91-93)

The 2012 Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Aux   Argillas needed two or three minutes to really open up in the glass but it is   certainly worth the wait. Guillaume plunged this Nuits more than his other   vineyards but was mindful of not over-extracting. It has a nuanced, complex bouquet   already with dark berry fruit, light forest floor aromas, candied orange peel   and a fine mineral component that only emerges with patience. The palate is   medium-bodied with very fine tannins, something that I think Guillaume Tardy   has really perfected in the last two or three vintages. It has very fine   persistency in the mouth with a touch of sucrose enlivening the aftertaste.

2012 Nuits St Georges Vieilles Vignes   Bas de Combe (88-90)

The 2012 Nuits St. Georges Vieilles Vignes Bas   de Combe has a more tertiary nose compared to Guillaume Tardy-s other 2012s:   darker fruit, undergrowth, field mushroom and even a marine influence that   might be enhanced after bottling. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp   tannins. This is tightly wound, reticent, almost broody, but there is superb   tension if not quite the persistency on the finish. This could be in a sullen   patch, so it will be intriguing to reassess this later in January. I suspect   will require four or five years in bottle.

2012 Jean Tardy Vosne Romanee Vigneux   (91-93)

The 2012 Vosne-Romanee Vigneux has a tighter,   more linear bouquet than the Chambolle Athets, with brambly red berry fruit   and touches of forest floor. There is a very pleasant, nascent sense of   tension here. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine and almost filigree   tannins. This feels very ripe in the mouth but not excessively so, the finish   silky smooth and exuding panache that will be enhanced with the addition of   the new wood. This has great potential and suggests that it will have fine   mineralite.